GUN HILL BREWING COMPANY WHIPS UP STRONG ALES AND AN EVEN STRONGER SENSE OF COMMUNITY
Originally Submitted on March 12th, 2018
Bronx, NY- Nestled between a tiny auto body shop and the headquarters of the local plasterer workers union in the Williamsbridge neighborhood lies Gun Hill Brewing Co. The company name is emblazoned in white paint upon an understated brown brick building, its loading bay door wide open for deliveries and curious passers-by, while its smaller walk in side door lists the tap room tasting hours in simple chalk scribbles. Beer is big business nowadays, and the breweries within New York City seek to stake their claim in a profitable market while trying to maintain a healthy relationship with their competitors as well as the local businesses and residents in the neighborhoods they inhabit. In more ways than one, Gun Hill Brewery stands out from the crowd while simultaneously blending in seamlessly within the community.
Saturday night; an austere expo center in Greenpoint, Brooklyn hosts the 10th annual celebration of NYC Beer Week, an extravaganza wherein breweries large and small from all over New York State converge to show off their new concoctions in a rapturous libation for beer enthusiasts and novice drinkers alike. And there is indeed much to celebrate, as New York enjoys the throes of a booming craft beer scene. According to data listed in a February press release from the Governor’s Office of Andrew Cuomo, New York is now home to over 400 breweries, eclipsing a record established back in 1876. The scene is particularly strong in NYC, with over 30 breweries holding membership in the NYC Brewers Guild, all of which had a strong showing of new wares for the festivities. While most of the breweries are located in Brooklyn and Queens, surprisingly few are situated in The Bronx.
“We chose the Bronx for a few reasons” explains David Lopez, Co-Founder and Managing Partner of the Gun Hill Brewing Company. “First off, there were no actual breweries in the Bronx when we started. The Bronx Brewery did not have any physical location, so we felt very strongly about being the first to bring beer back to the borough.” Lopez lists native roots as another factor in their quest to bring beer to the Bronx. “Kieran Farrell (his co-founding Partner) was born in the Woodlawn section of the Bronx and then went to Manhattan College. My mother was born in the Bronx, my grandfather went to high school in the Bronx (around the corner from the brewery actually), and I went to school from Kindergarten thru 12th grade over in Riverdale.”
Later that week on a brisk Thursday afternoon, it’s business as usual at the brewery located on Laconia Avenue, just off of Gun Hill Road. Head Brewer Chris Prout guides me through the towering machinery and vaguely familiar technical terms of brewing such as “wort” and “spelt saison.” Proudt couldn’t speak to the customer reaction as much, being a “back of the house” staff member, but when asked about their place in the NYC craft beer community, he happily offered “There’s a tremendous brewer community in New York. Everyone collaborates and shares ideas.” Up front in the tap room tasting area, Distribution and Event Organizer William Burkhardt provides insight into the residential community and customer reaction to Gun Hill, speaking candidly about the benefits of being based in The Bronx. “There’s a two-fold advantage here” says Burkhardt. “We’re going to remain kind of a gem. There’s not a lot of spots to get a nice drink here, which means our clientele for the most part is locally based, but it also makes us a destination. When people come out here, there much more inclined to take notice and really judge the beers. A lot of these folks want to come in and support the community, which is what we are.”
As we converse, we are intermittently interrupted by an aloof but amiable older Latino gentleman giving praise to the brewery while arguing with a relative on the phone. Trying to get his personal details proved unsuccessful, but he was clearly very appreciative to William for his bar tending services and allowing him the space to relax and get a moments respite from whatever family issues awaited him at home. Not even five minutes after his departure, a young well to-do white couple enter the taproom for a few pints. Their names are Danielle and Colby, both in their mid-20s, both bartenders in Long Island’s Suffolk County. When asked what brought them to this far out neck of the woods, they explained that they were familiar with Gun Hill products being sold at their workplaces and decided to stop by on the way to a concert in upstate New York and get a closer look. And so it was, on a random weekday afternoon at a craft beer brewery in The Bronx, Burkhardt’s words about a community safe haven that attracts beer lovers from far & wide had come to life right before my eyes.
The following Saturday, the Gun Hill team concluded their NYC Beer Week festivities by hosting their very own fourth anniversary celebration. The floor space that had been quiet and sparsely populated only two days earlier was now packed wall to wall with customers from all over the city enjoying the fruits of Gun Hill Brewing Co.’s labor (quite literally in this case, as one of the special brews on tap is a peach-infused saison). When reflecting on all the craft breweries, pop up restaurants, cafes and other service industry storefronts throughout the city in recent years, the specter of gentrification looms ever present. As such, it is truly a relief to see that Gun Hill Brewing Company has found a peaceful equilibrium. “It’s not like we supplanted anything or pushed anyone out” says Burkhardt. “It’s actually quite the opposite. There is a sense of community not just with patrons, but with other local businesses as well. Our pretzels are from Bronx baking company, our empanadas are right over from Allerton Avenue.” Burkhardt’s words echo in my mind as I try a sampler flight of their new brews paired with a chicken & cheese empanada; the perfect combination of flavors attests to that successful synergy.
